How to bolt down a safe comes down to three things: find the factory anchor holes, match the anchor to what is under your floor (concrete or a wood subfloor), and drill only after you have checked for pipes, wires and post tension cables. On concrete you use a hammer drill and expansion anchors; on wood you drive lag bolts into a joist or use the manufacturer’s wood floor kit. Small safes can also go into wall studs. Below: each method, the tools, and which of our safes ship with anchor holes.
Why bolt down a safe at all
A safe that can be carried out can be opened later, somewhere quiet. Safe and Vault Store makes that point in why you should always bolt your safe to a solid surface. Liberty Safe adds in its guide to anchoring your gun safe to the floor: a safe on its back is much easier to pry open, and an unanchored safe can tip. The Liberty owner’s manual warns that hanging on an open door may tip a safe forward when it is not lag bolted to the floor.
Where to place the safe before you drill
- Ground floor or basement slab. Concrete gives the strongest hold. Our fireproof safe ratings guide explains why lower floors help in a fire too.
- Hinge side away from the wall. The SentrySafe Model 1380 manual recommends putting the door opening next to the wall so there is less room to pry.
- Dry and climate controlled. The Liberty manual recommends it; see our gun safe dehumidifier guide for moisture.
- Not on tile. Liberty says anchoring through tile will usually crack it; ask your installer about the wall instead.
Tools and hardware for safe anchor bolts
| Item | Concrete floor | Wood subfloor | Wall (small safes) |
|---|---|---|---|
| Drill | Hammer drill | Standard drill | Standard drill |
| Bit | Carbide masonry bit sized to the anchor | Wood bit sized to the lag bolt pilot | Wood bit for studs |
| Fasteners | Drop in or wedge expansion anchors | Lag bolts into joists, or a wood floor kit | Lag screws into studs |
| Other | Shop vac or blow out bulb, hammer | Stud or joist finder | Stud finder, level |
| Every job | Safety glasses, dust mask, socket set, washers, shims | Safety glasses, socket set, washers, shims | Safety glasses, socket set, washers |
Use the hole size your manual or anchor maker specifies. For example, Liberty calls for a 3/8 inch concrete bit with its concrete kit and a 1/4 inch hole with its wood floor kit, while the SentrySafe 1380 manual pairs 1/4 inch bolts with 1/2 inch holes for masonry anchors. Those sizes belong to those kits, not every safe.
How to bolt down a safe on concrete, step by step
- Confirm the slab is not post tension. Liberty’s gun safe installation guide warns that post tension slabs contain steel cables under heavy tension that can snap out if cut. Look for a stamp or ask the builder. If in doubt, call a professional.
- Check for buried lines. Radiant floor heat tubing, plumbing and electrical conduit can run through or under a slab. Check plans or have the slab scanned.
- Find the anchor holes. On many gun safes you lift the floor panel and pop out caps over pre cut holes. The SentrySafe manual says to drill only at the designated spots.
- Set and level the safe. The Liberty manual recommends a protective mat underneath and shims so the door swings correctly.
- Mark the holes. Mark through the holes, then move the safe aside to drill.
- Drill. Hammer drill to the depth the anchor requires, wearing eye and dust protection.
- Clean the holes. Liberty says to clear the dust before setting anchors.
- Set the anchors. Tap in the anchors, return the safe and line up the holes.
- Bolt and tighten. Add washers, tighten, then replace the floor caps and panel.
Anchoring a safe to a wood floor or joists
If there is a basement or crawlspace under the room, the floor is usually plywood over joists, and Liberty says that calls for wood anchors rather than concrete hardware. Safe and Vault Store describes lag bolts into a floor joist or a butterfly bolt through the subfloor. If you can reach the underside, a steel plate under the subfloor makes the safe much harder to pry up.
Hitting the joists
Locate joists with a stud finder or from below, and position the safe so as many anchor holes as possible land over framing. Check for wiring, ductwork and plumbing under the floor first.
Carpet over the floor
Sources differ here. Safe and Vault Store says you can cut a square of carpet out under the safe or bolt through it, while the SentrySafe 1380 manual says not to drill through carpeting. Follow your own safe’s manual.
Wall anchoring for small safes
Small personal, hotel and drawer safes often have holes in the back for wall mounting. Use lag screws into studs, not drywall anchors. Safe and Vault Store cautions against bolting a fire rated safe to a wall through holes you drill yourself, saying it will void the fire rating.
Our safes with anchor holes or mounting hardware
Prices are from our listings at the time of writing and can change. Anchoring notes are quoted from each listing.
| Safe | Anchoring per listing | Size or weight | Price |
|---|---|---|---|
| 36 Gun Safe | Included hardware to mount to a wall or floor | 25 x 30 x 55 in | $1,852.99 |
| Digital Keypad Two Lock Depository Safe | Mounting hardware included | 20 x 20 x 30 in | $1,588.99 |
| Mesa MFL2118C | Four anchor holes to secure to the floor | 2.1 cu ft, 120 lb | $785.59 |
| Mesa MFL2714C | Four anchor holes to secure to the floor | 1.3 cu ft, 114 lb | $727.18 |
| Mesa MFL2014K | 4 pre drilled anchor holes, anchor kit included | 0.8 cu ft | $561.72 |
| Mesa Hotel Safe with Card Swipe | 4 pre drilled holes for wall, floor or pedestal | 0.4 cu ft, 25 lb | $231.95 |
| Qualarc 2 Cubic Foot Personal Safe | Pre drilled holes in back, mounting kit | 2 cu ft | $194.99 |
See the full Mesa Safe range for more depository and hotel models. If you are choosing a cash drop safe, our depository safe guide compares lock types and loading styles, and the jewelry safe buying guide covers sizing small safes.
Safety: moving, drilling and renting
- Heavy safes need pros to move. Liberty recommends professional installation and warns that a DIY install can damage the safe, the home and you.
- Know what is under the floor. Pipes, radiant heat lines and wires can sit right where you plan to drill.
- Post tension slabs: ask a pro. Do not drill until a qualified contractor confirms it is safe.
- Renters: ask the landlord. Safe and Vault Store suggests asking for permission first; if the answer is no, a heavier or better hidden safe is the fallback.
- Structural questions. A licensed contractor and local code have the final word.
Frequently asked questions
Can I anchor a safe to concrete myself?
Many people do, after confirming the slab is not post tension and has no buried lines. If unsure, hire an installer.
What size safe anchor bolts do I need?
Use what your safe’s manual or anchoring kit specifies. Sizes vary by brand and kit.
Should a heavy gun safe still be bolted down?
Yes. Both Liberty and Safe and Vault Store recommend it, because weight alone does not stop a safe from being tipped, pried or removed.
Can I bolt a safe to a wood floor without hitting a joist?
Through bolts with a plate underneath can work if you can reach the underside. Lag bolts into joists hold better than screws into subfloor alone.
Can I bolt a safe to a wall?
Small safes with back mounting holes can go into studs. Avoid drilling new holes in a fire rated safe.
Need help finding a safe that ships with anchor holes or hardware? Call 866-777-2590, Monday to Friday, 9AM to 6PM PST. Orders of $999 or more ship free by freight, and smaller orders ship for a $200 flat rate. Review our return and refund policy before you order.
